AT-ATs are highly collectible, and for the most part fairly easy to find at reasonable prices - if incomplete. The most commonly missing parts are the chin guns - and they are TOUGH to get! They will typically cost as much as an AT-AT that is only missing the chin guns. So as usual, if you are trying to complete a collection, buy it complete if you can. I do offer quality made, reasonably priced 3D printed replacement parts here.

The legs of an AT-AT ALWAYS seem as if they will break when you try to move them. And it IS possible to break the gears that make the clicking noise in the "hips/shoulders". If you find an AT-AT whose legs move freely with no (or almost no) clicking, those "gears" are broken. I do have a repair kit available here. You can help minimize this from happening by "tuning" them up:
Remove the legs by placing the AT-AT upside down on the ground. Press firmly on its "chest" with one hand, and pull the leg straight up with your other hand. You have to pull pretty hard, but it WILL come out. With the legs removed, take the 2 screws out, and place a tiny bit of plastic lubricant where the teeth connect to make the clicking noise. I personally use a little Armor All - but there are some collectors that will tell you never to do this. I've never had an issue with it causing any degradation, and you're only using a tiny bit, but use at your discretion. Once "lubed" up, screw it back together. But don't over tighten the screws. Tighten them just enough so it still clicks, and has enough tension to stay in place. Between the lubrication and the slightly loosened screws, you will have an AT-AT that is super easy to pose.

If the electronics are not working, there are 3 main points to check: the battery terminals, the motor, and the switch/button. If you clean the terminals and it still won't fire, you'll need to start taking it apart. Once accessed, test the motor directly to see if it will spin. Often times you can get it going by oiling the shaft with a little 3 in 1 oil, directly powering it, and then spinning it by hand. If this doesn't get it going, see this video, which explains how to get even the worst motors going:



If the motor works (directly powered) but it still won't fire, there may be corrosion on the switch - which is really just some copper strips that get pushed together. While the AT-AT is disassembled, access the contacts and run some sandpaper or a thin file through where the the contacts should touch. Be careful separating the plastic parts that cover the contacts as it's easy to break the posts that hold them together.

The light bulb can be expected to go at some point. It is just a common filament automotive bulb from the 70's after all! Fortunately, they are still made today. If you need a replacement bulb for your vintage AT-AT, they are what's typically called a PR-2 automotive bulb. You can find them here on Amazon. However, you may find the new bulb may not fit quite the same as the original. If you can't get the glass of the new bulb to fit in the "metal fork" of the AT-AT, you may need to take a Dremmel and grind down just a bit of the fork to open it up so the glass will fit.

The AT-AT does have a good number of stickers, so make sure you check these locations out:







Here's a great quick video by Chronique Vintage that covers the vintage AT-AT in more detail:

Buyers want to know if all the parts are included, and they will want to see pictures to make sure. Take pictures from all sides, including the bottom (there are 2 stickers there!), as well as from under the chin - they want to know the bulb cover and a bulb are there as well. Don't forget interior shots to show that the battery cover is there, and even a close up of the battery compartment to show if there is any corrosion. Video of the chin guns lighting up and moving is a HUGE attention grab to a buyer, so take a quick video of it in action if you can.

The following suggestions are intended to help you get the best price possible for the figure you are trying to sell, whether you are selling on eBay, Mercari, or any other online platform.

Best Platforms for Selling Vintage Star Wars Action Figures

Every platform has its advantages. If you have a solid brand built in a particular platform - you should definitely sell there. In general, our top pick is eBay. Yes, we are an eBay affiliate, but eBay is a solid, reputable platform that has been around as long as e-commerce. People trust it, and it has solid protections for sellers and buyers. Other platforms like FaceBook Market Place, Mercari, Etsy, and even Poshmark are all solid platforms, but most sellers do not rely on any one of them singly. Often, if you find a listing on one of these platforms, it is likely cross-listed on eBay. So if you are looking to post on a single online platform, eBay is our top recommendation. For local sales, FaceBook Market Place and Craigslist are your best bets. Facebook will probably get you a larger audience, but Craigslist still attracts a large group of people that shy away from social media.

Tips For Listing Vintage Star Wars Action Figures Online

• Take clear, close-up photos of the figure, including the following:
  • Full body from the front, back, sides AND top.
  • Close ups of the accessory/weapon, by itself, from both sides.
• Take photos of any damaged areas, including scratches, rubbed off paint, or discoloration.
• Take photos of the figure standing without help of a stand if you can to demonstrate the tightness of the legs.
• Take photos of the figure with arms extended to demonstrate the tightness of the arms.
• Any the above photo suggestions can of course be combined to minimize the number of photos you need to take/upload. Consider an action pose of the figure from an angle, with weapon in hand, and the head pointed at the camera. This demonstrates a number of traits while at the same time making a cool main photo.
• If the arms and/or legs are loose, disclose that in the listing.
• If there is any damage or discoloration, disclose that in the listing.
• DO NOT buy reproduction weapons to sell with a figure to make them "look complete". Collectors do NOT want reproduction items and your reputation can be ruined for selling them. Do your best to verify the weapon with resources like The Imperial Gunnery. If you can't verify it, mention that in the listing. The more effort you put into knowing the product, the more trust you will earn from the buyers!
• DO NOT post a figure with a vintage accessory that does not go with it and claim that's it's "100% original". Even if the accessory is an original, if it doesn't go to the figure - no one wants to buy it that way. You are better off listing the accessory separately.
• Avoid using the phrase "No Repro" in the listing to try to indicate that it's all original. Many serious collectors have advanced searches that they use, and frequently block "repro" in the search. So, even though you have a "no" in there, you may be losing some of your audience. Instead, use phrases like "100% original" or "complete and all original vintage accessories".
• Do NOT post fuzzy or out of focus pictures. Buyers will likely think that you either don't know what you are doing, or that you are trying to hide something about the figure.
• You do not need fancy cameras to take good pictures for your posting. An older cell phone can often take perfect photos. If you are having trouble getting a clear shot, consider getting or making a simple mount for your phone. This will hold it steady for you while you make sure it gets in focus.